providing beauty, a clean playing surface and an improved environment.
The following are some basic tips to encourage a dense, healthy lawn.
Give your lawn at least 2 to 3 cm (1 inch) of water as soon as the turf
has be laid. Water daily, or more often, keeping turf moist until it is
firmly rooted (about 2 weeks). Then less frequent and deeper watering
During hot and windy conditions you may need to water twice a day. If
allowed to dry out, the sod pieces will contract and gaps will be left
along the joints. Indicators that your lawn needs to be watered include:
remain while walking across the lawn
changes slightly to dark blue/green
blades fold inwards
areas near buildings more often where reflected heat dries the turf. To
avoid causing indentations or air pockets avoid walking or kneeling on
the turf just after watering.
Enough water should be applied to wet the entire area to a depth of 10
to 20 cm or about 4 to 8 inches. You can measure the amount of water applied
by placing a straight-sided can or jar into the are being watered. Approximately
2.5 to 4 cm of water in the container corresponds to an adequate irrigation.
Infrequent, thorough watering is better than frequent, light sprinkling
for maintaining a healthy turf. If your area is heavily sloped, keep in
mind it will need twice as much water for penetration.
During the first three weeks, avoid heavy or concentrated use of your
new lawn. This gives the roots an opportunity to firmly knit with soil,
and ensures that the turf will remain smooth.
Mow often, generally removing no more than 1/3 of the grass height at
a mowing. Repeated scalping of the turf weakens the root system, directly
affecting the ability of the turf to obtain water and nutrients.
The three main nutrients required by turfgrass are nitrogen, phosphorous
and potassium. Nitrogen promotes dark green colour, leaf and blade development
and density of the turf. Phosphorous is important for root development
and potassium contributes to the plants vigor and promotes water and drought
The following is a recommended fertilizer program for your established
lawn developed for our Southern Alberta growing conditions.
TREE CARE (return
In order to keep your tree(s) alive and
healthy, there is some maintenance involved. For the first year or
two years, your tree(s) will require water and nutrients that you
will be responsible to supply. Although every tree is different and
therefore they have different needs, we will give you a few basic
tips to encourage the successful life of your tree(s).
on the size and species of your tree, you should be watering 2 - 3 times
a week with exception of Evergreens which once established do not require
specific watering and prefer to be dry. If you have a 'tree well' established
around your tree, fill it with water and let it drain into the roots of
the tree. If you do not have a tree well and your tree is planted at grade,
place a garden hose a few feet away from the truck (where you presume
the roots are) and leave it on a slow trickle for 15 - 20 minutes. Almost
90% of the problems incurred with new trees are due to watering mishaps
(either too much or not enough). Whenever in doubt, wait a couple of days
after watering and dig down a foot beside the rootball of your tree. The
soil should be kept moist. If it is hard and dry, you may need to INCREASE
the amount of water your tree is receiving. Trees such as Birch and Willows
will require more water than others. Trees such as Amur Cherrys, Maydays,
Mountain Ash and Evergreens are partially drought tolerant and therefore
do not require as much water.
If you have a newly installed irrigation system or have new sod on your
property that you are frequently watering, keep an eye on your trees as
this is how drowning occurs!
Fertilizing is HIGHLY recommended in the spring. We advise to use a 10-52-10
root starter fertilizer for any newly installed tree or shrub. NOTE: All
fertilizers are different. Be sure to read the instructions before applying.
In the fall it will be normal for newly installed deciduous trees to turn
their fall color and drop their leaves a little prematurely. It is also
normal for Evergreen trees to experience some fall needle shed (this is
when the needles close to the trunk will turn yellow and drop). For the
first year of a newly planted tree, it is extremely important to water
the tree right through to the end of fall. Fall watering does not have
to be done as frequently as you would in summer. Once a week should be
sufficient. This continues until the ground is frozen. Pretty much the
last time you can use your garden hose is when you should give your tree
that final soaking (30 minute drip of water to the roots) to freeze it
in for the winter. What you are trying to accomplish is to freeze the
rootball and the ground around the tree in order to ensure that the ground
will not thaw out during a Chinook. This should be the end of your watering
routine until spring. Watering in the winter is not advisable as cold
water is still warmer than frozen ground and may actually thaw out the
rootball of your tree(s) which is precisely what you are trying to avoid.